Frame and Raised Panel Construction
Making professional-looking cabinet doors is easier than you think!

STEP 4:
The ends of the rails are formed into tenons by removing 1/4-inch of thickness from each rail end. This leaves a tenon that’s exactly 1/4-inch thick and centered on the board so the ends slip smoothly into the groove in the stiles.

STEP 5:
Change your dado blade set-up from a 1/2-inch depth-of-cut to a 1/4-inch depth-of-cut. Adjust your rip fence to form a tenon that’s exactly 1/2-inch long from the end to the “cheek”.
 
NOTE: The “Formula” for setting the blade height is as follows:  Subtract the thickness of the tenon from the thickness of your board and divide by two.

STEP 6:
Replace your MARK V’s saw table insert with a zero-clearance insert . Using a shop-built panel raising fixture set your MARK V’s table tilt angle to 15-degrees. Adjust the rip fence so the  inside set of teeth are 3/16-inch from the fence face (as shown). With the machine turned OFF, grab your MARK V’s auxiliary spindle and hand-twist the blade through a revolution to be certain of the clearance.

Step 4	Step 5
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STEP 7:
Adjust your table height so the edge of the blade penetrates your stock fully on the 15-degree angle. Cut all bevels, then smooth them by hand sanding or scraping.

STEP 8:
The panel should be cut to provide 1/4-inch of clearance per foot of width to allow for expansion and contraction with changes in the weather/environment. When assembling the panel into the frame, glue only the stiles and rails, leaving the panel to “float” in its frame, unglued.

Step 6	Step 7	Step 8
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